• Four weeks mark in India.
• Adam got his first food poisoning 2 weeks ago. Two whole days of hell and a week of running away from food. Now he is scarred of the words “pani puri” or “sizzlers”. I still like pani puri too much.
• Mama is spoiling us by sending a care package. Aw… I will be able to make chicken noodle in case of emergency. She is also sending chopsticks.
• The rickshaw drivers in front of the complex are ganging up on us. There is a man that seems to be the boss of this particular group. He was reasonable, but not always present. He knows that our price is 30 rupees and tells one of the driver to take us. Unless the head-man is there, they all demand 40 rupees for the ride to work. We had to give in this morning. Locals only pay 22-25 rupees.
• We will try to rent a motorbike/moped this weekend to stop this rickshaw madness.
• Vegetables are extremely cheap over here, while seafood and meat are quite expensive.
• Made chicken phở last week. The chicken had good texture and was very flavorful. Neither Huy Fong Sriracha nor sawtooth corriander were available.
• Indians do not eat much noodles of any kind. We got a package of rice noodle made from Thailand for 245 rupees (4 dollars). In the US, they only cost $1.50 each.
• Not much appetite for Indian food these days. Everything start to taste the same or very similar. Too much sauce, too much spices, and too much oil.
• I have been dreaming of my dad quite a lot. Miss him terribly. Sometimes during my dreams, I suddenly remember that he was dead, so I made him die to match reality.
• I learned how to play StarCraft II. My non-existent sense of direction is very frustrating. Adam shows me where to build my assets, then of course I build them somewhere else completely different. Then I could not find them when I need them later either. Pathetic!
• We both seem to lose some weight.
• My uncle called me from Vietnam two weeks ago. We had a long nice chat.
• I am planning a three weeks trip to Vietnam with 3 days stop-over in Bangkok at the end of Adam’s assignment. Hope everything will go as planned. Getting visas to Vietnam will be the trickiest part.
• I miss sleepovers with my sister, Rebecca. We usually watch Big Bang Theory and eat lots of snacks. Salt and vinegar chips and sea salt caramel gelato are our favorites. She has a special way of rolling down the bag so that I don’t have to reach deep to grab the chips. We do other happy things too which I will not mention until next Valentine day :)
• Food I will devour when coming back to the States: avocado eggrolls, California burger, and white chocolate macadamia nut pizookie from BJ’s; Korean BBQ from Omi; mac and cheese from Slow Bone; Adam’s delicious steak and grilled baby bell peppers with mint and feta.
• Our neighbors from upstairs systematically make loud and annoying thud thud thud sounds through our ceiling at 8 every single morning. I already ruled out sex, so chopping meat maybe?
• My mom is going on a week long vacation tomorrow. Wish I could be with her.
• Tickets back to the U.S. for Christmas are booked. Cannot wait for some family and friend time, and of course homemade eggnog.
• The Indian people I have meet are mostly reserved. But a few of them are very friendly. Four people give me big smiles when we cross path everyday: a gate guard at the apartment complex, a gate guard and two house keeping ladies at work. Guava man and dabeli guy also smile back when I wave at them.
• I feel safe here, at least in Pune. Nobody tries to rob, rape, kidnap, or murder me (yet). But of course I will always be careful. If foreigners/tourists exercise reasonable precaution, there is not much to worry about.
• Adam’s favorite street food is dabeli - a spicy snack made by mixing boiled potatoes with a dabeli masala, and putting the mixture between pav (burger bun) and served with chutneys made from tamarind, date, garlic, red chilies… and garnished with pomegranate and roasted peanuts. The dabeli is then toasted on a hot metal plate.

Since our family vacation to the Grand Canyon last summer, Adam and I have been itching to put our hiking shoes to more use. We had vowed to not let all the blisters it took to break them in go to waste. Lucky us, Gurpreet (Adam’s coworker) offered to take us to a half-day hiking trip last weekend.

Sinhagad Fort(The Lion’s Fort) lies about 30 kilometers (18 miles) southwest of Pune and rises 1312 meters (4304 feet) above sea level. Once the site of many important battles, only the traditional gates and broken walls remain today. One could opt to drive all the way to the fort, or stop at the foothills then hike up.

Gurpreet had hiked there a few times already so he suggested that we start early to avoid the afternoon sun. He picked us up at 5:00 and we reached the base at around 6:00. His car suffered some serious abuse due to the poor road condition.

The hike up usually takes about an hour; but with my short legs, lack of stamina and excessive picture taking, it took an hour and a half. The climb was steep but the fresh air, huge batches of wild flowers, and the patience of my companions made everything better. A long the way, there were a few flimsy huts that sell quick refreshments such as fresh cucumbers, pickles, boiled peanuts, yogurts… We passed on the snacks for sanitary reasons but then later shamelessly accepted the granola bar Gurpreet offered when our feet got wobbly on the way down.

From the top we can see all the way to Pune. The view was spectacular - everything I would have wanted for my engagement pictures if I could do it again. On the way down, Gurpreet spotted a couple of mountain crabs. They made me all lustful since I did not really have any shellfish since I got here. Besides, Adam and I were famished. Next time, we would not go without some snacks, no matter how short the hike is.

Last work day before the long holiday weekend and I find myself too distracted for homework. While I leisurely sip on the freshly pressed pineapple juice, Adam is working as diligently as ever. Two tables away and amongst all the buzzy Thoughtworkers, his frequent booming laughs resonate the whole room. They are strangely soothing, especially for a rainy day like today.

So we officially have a guava man. He parks in front of our complex every morning from Monday through Saturday. We were disappointed not seeing him last Sunday, but glad that he has a day off. His guavas are always fresh and happy. Some days he even has pomegranates. He (and seemingly other fruit sellers - on bikes or in little shops) does not negotiate. That makes everything so much easier. Now when he sees us approaching, he would raise his index finger signaling if we would like to buy one kilogram. Of course I grin and nod. He then would pick one guava, look at me to see if I approve, then put it in a bag. After about 5 guavas and 60 Rupees later, I walk away with my yummies, extremely happy.

There have been a few other events this week that got me to relax my armor a little. On the way home from work last night, we did not have to haggle for rickshaw fare for the first time. I was shocked when the driver just pointed to the meter counter. If Adam were not so busy rushing me inside the rickshaw, I would have kicked him to see if we were dreaming. Then this morning after a wild goose chase to find Citibank office, a nice man gave us a partial lift with “real” directions to the bank. Apparently Google maps in this part of the world are not as reliable yet. And of course differentiating between an ATM and a “real” branch could be a bit tricky.

In order to make any major financial transactions (opening bank account, large sales or purchases of assets…) in India, one must first apply for a Permanent Account Number (PAN) - an identifier of Indian income tax payers. According to the bank assistance, the PAN card - which will bear the face-photo of the holder, date of birth, date of issue and a hologram sticker as security feature - will come in the mail in about two weeks. However when opening an account, Citibank will accept the receipt of the application. Once the card comes, they will add it to the profile. Other documents include passport, visa, FRRO paper works, another form of ID such as driver license, and a letter from HR from the company employed.

Adam’s company has initiated the application for his PAN… Hopefully it will come soon so he can start getting direct deposit instead. Mama has wired $500 to us through Western Union with the fee of $11. Eleven dollars mean 677 Rupees of heavenly street food - a feast I rather not have to give to Western Union.

• One week mark on India soil.
• Apartment is on 9th floor - nice balcony with plants, has a TV with about 15 English movie/entertaining channels (including HBO), smells like sewer sometimes.
• Apparently we have housekeeping 5 days/week. The apartment caretaker refers to them as “the boy”. They clean the house, wash the dishes, and empty the trash. However, I’ve been doing the dishes myself. Hoping to keep it up.
• Hindi phrase I can say: Namaste, meraa naam Thien hai - Greetings, my name is Thien.
• Have been going to Adam’s office everyday this week. Got lots of homework done.
• Thoughtworks Pune provides free breakfasts, lunches, coffee, and snacks. Hot chai is served at 10 and 3.
• Cooked dinner twice: brinjai masala, sauteed flat green beans and long green beans.
• Guava sellers tow about 50kg of guavas on their legendary rugged bicycles 25km each way from the orchards to Pune daily. 60Rs/kg.
• Had two street food: pani puri - thin crispy hollow bread ball filled with spicy tangy tamarind water, samosa: flaky fried pastry with savory fillings (spiced potatoes, onions, peas, lentils…).
• Favorite items purchased: guavas, custard apples, a pair of cleaning gloves.
• Tip is about 10% at restaurants.
• Prices for beer (and maybe alcohol in general) are printed on the can/bottle, no negotiation.
• 2.0km ride on a rickshaw costs about 25Rs to 30Rs, depending on traffic. However, we have been quoted 50Rs, 60Rs, and even 100Rs. People are relentless when it comes to overcharging us.
• Adam found a pretty accurate rickshaw price sheet online. When he showed it to the drivers, they say that such prices are only for locals. Adam’s reply? “Bullshit!” - of course accompanied by his usual booming laugh.
• Most people speak very little English.
• I have been messing up all the names of the people at work. I shall prevail next week.
• Gandhi’s birthday is October 2nd, which is a national holiday.
• Hindus are currently celebrating Navratri - the most celebrated Hindu festival devoted to Goddess Durga - September 25th to October 3rd this year.
• Registration with the Foreigners Regional Registration Office (FRRO) proved to be a nightmare as expected. Adam had to make countless trips, most involved long period of waiting , and many of which he came back with nothing accomplished.
• Daily operations and activities start much later than in the U.S. People get to work at about 10:00. Lunch is around 1:00-2:30. Dinner is around 8:00-9:30. Most restaurants do not serve dinner until 7:00.
• The streets are extremely busy at night, especially where there are street food vendors.
• From what I can see, the men run most of everything here.
• Tuborg - a Denmark pilsner launched in India in 2009 - is 65Rs each and is pretty drinkable.
• Adam’s curiosity is about to get the better of him. He will eat pizza to see if they are anything like the ones at home.
• Too bad we missed Octoberfest this year.
• Children do play outside a lot. They are very loud too.
• Traffic, pollution, and the heat are not bad. Bearable!
• Walking in sandals is not recommended.

The 92-mile drive from Mumbai to Pune took about four hours. As the taxi driver expertly squeezed through the most unbelievably small spaces, the number of knots on my shoulder naturally increased. Thankfully, most of the scenery were very peaceful and pleasant - lush mountains, long tunnels, grass fields, wild flowers, and the occasional monkeys on rail guards.

Since Adam was off to Awayday in Hyderabad with his fellow Thoughtworkers for the weekend, I arrived to an empty flat. First order of business, sleep! The room was so musky that I buried my nose into Misa’s neck, trying to sniff out the perfume I sprayed on her before we left.

I woke up at five in the morning, famished. The three hours wait for the restaurants to be opened was unbearable. Luckily, Kalyani Veg was right outside the complex. Once there, I stuffed myself with Cheese Paper Masala Dosa and the heavenly Mango Pulp.

With a happy belly, I wandered for about 5 minutes each way from the apartment’s main intersection. The inevitalbe encounters with the beggar children were confronting and uncomfortable. The second girl of about ten was carrying a toddler, maybe her sibling or a child her gang leader rented for her as a tool to beg with. She has large burn marks on her face, her neck, and along her arms. At first she slightly grabbed me, then outright started jabbing me with her finger. As I firmly told her “No”, I knew this is only the first of many times I must walk away. I do not know how to help her or the other millions beggars in this country. I do not know if any one can either.

On a happier note, the first purchases from the locals on the way back to the apartment went pretty smoothly - custard apples and guavas. Of course I failed to negotiate (thus the smooth part), but I came home with some of the tastiest fruits on this earth.

I crossed all the phalanges I have and my wish came true. My visa came back 10 days after I sent it in. Even better, I applied for the 6 months entry visa and they granted my stay until Adam’s visa expires - August 28, 2015. However, each of my stay cannot exceed 180 days, which will not be a problem since I’ll come home for Christmas.

Two days later, after some speedy packing, house cleaning, and last minute errand running, I said goodbye to home and headed to Mumbai.

“Mr. Truong” - the sign read when the hotel’s cab driver greeted me at Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (BOM) last night. Well, Mr. Truong was all chatty until “he” realized that the driver did not talk much at all. He did not smile, mostly just pointed me to the direction needed. I was not helping the situation when I absolutely forgot to tip him.

Tipping is such a tricky business when traveling to a new country. When should I tip? How much is appropriate? I should have read up on it before I left, but oh well. Plenty of chances to practice now that I’m gonna be here for the next 6 months or so.

The drive from BOM to the hotel was short, about 15 mintues. The streets were still very active at 9:30 p.m. Men gathered into countless small groups at all the tiny shops and shags. Many wandered nonchalantly on the streets. From what I’ve seen, Mumbai seems old and run down - many slums. The streets are narrow and somewhat dark. Most of the lights were from street vendors.

The quiet driver dropped me off at Hotel Kohinoor Continental. Dinner buffet and breakfast were complimentary. Since I just had “breakfast” on the plane, I settled for some water over dinner. My room was on the 5th floor over looking the streets below. I stayed up until four in the morning doing homework just to find out that I could not upload my assignement due to the hotel’s excruciatingly slow Internet. After a shower with some very powerful scented shampoo and bar soap, I force myself to nap for a few hours so that I can wake up in time for breakfast not feeling like a cranky zombie.

After what seemed to be forever, Adam finally got his visa last week and now is on his twenty-hours flight to Mumbai. His company will send a person with a sign that says “Mr. Russell” at the airport and take him to his apartment in Pune. I was relieved to know that he will not have to try to find a cab at 4 in the morning.

It has been too long since I last had a blog. Typing these first few lines seems rather silly and unfamiliar.

This summer has been a mixture of suspense, rush, and leisure.

Adam is still waiting patiently for his employment visa from the Indian Consulate in Houston. Since May 21, 2014, Cox & Kings Global Service (CKGS) is the only authorized Service Provider for the Embassy of India and its Consulates across the USA for Indian Visa. The process has been more than painful. All the paper works must first go through CKGS before they send it to the Indian Consulate. Forget competency, forget sanity, forget reason. Don’t be surprise if they still ask for a tax form (which was not listed in the required documents) after you already re-submitted the dang form three times previously. Seven weeks have passed since Adam first submitted the lengthy paper works. Still nothing. Imagine of having to deal directly with pure bureaucrats once on Indian soil! Should I start “praying” for our survival?

As much as I am excited to experience India, I am starting to get wary about this trip. I cannot even apply for my entry visa until Adam get his. Who knows how much longer they will drag it out since I was not born here (naturalized citizen takes longer to be processed than American-born). There is a chance that Adam will be finished with his 6-month assignment and I am still visa-less. Hah!

Oh well, at least I am still alive and well for another day. Just a weekend with coconut chicken waffle and yummy beer, and all the blues will be away.