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Tough Love in Nepal

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So many times I want to write about our trip to Nepal last February but the words keep finding way to hide. I lost motivation mainly because it was not as a successful trip as I had hoped, especially since I spent so much time planning for it. So here I am, yanking out my hair writing this, hoping that if I can get all the frustrating parts out of the way, the rest would be easier.

To keep the trip inexpensive and allow for lots of time to relax, I opted to stay in the Kathmandu Valley area, which comprises of three ancient cities: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Our itinerary for the week was simple:

  • Day 1, 2, 3: Arrive in Thamel. Visit Kathmandu Dubar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Patan Dubar Square.
  • Day 4: Trek to Nagarkot
  • Day 5: Trek to Dhulikhel
  • Day 6, 7: Wind down in Bhaktapur.
  • Day 8: Go home.

Entrance fees for most attractions are ridiculously higher for foreigners except for SAARC nationals; and the same goes for airplane tickets to any parts of Nepal. Pokhara, a destination 200km away, was very tempting but I couldn’t justify spending $120 each way on airfare for each person, especially when the flight is only 25-minute long. From what Adam gathered, Nepal was once an integral part of what was called the “Hippie Trail” – a journey travelled from Europe overland to southern Asia with the goal to spend as little money as possible. Since these “hippie visitors” do not contribute much to Nepal’s heavily tourism dependent economy, its government decides to levy high fees accross all foreigner related services.

The discrimination in price was already nipping at me but I held it in, until we arrived to Bhaktapur. In Kathmandu and Patan, you enter the cities and then only buy tickets if you want to see a particular sight. In Bhaktapur, tickets are required the second you step foot inside the city limit since the whole thing is considered a heritage site (which I didn’t know). Tickets are $15 per person; but you still have to pay extra if you want to visit the museums and such. I would not have been so angry if only the Dubar Square here could even compare to the one in Kathmandu. For twice the price, I expected a whole lot more. What a disappointment!!! Thankfully we found the perfect souvenir here: an exquisite singing bowl. I think it helped calming down my anger and sadness; but this city definitely made my black list.

So except for Bhaktapur and Boudhanath and Patan Dubar Square, everything else was great. We had the best pizza ever at Fire and Ice, and drank so many sweet lassi. We experienced our first hookah and loved it. We trekked until my thighs were chafed and my toenails turned purple (my hiking shoes does not like the fact that my index toes are a lot longer than my big toes - CREEPY!). All in all, we were glad we made the trip. Mistakes made and learned; and we are one country richer than before we left.

Kathmandu, Nepal

Our journey: Thamel - Nagarkot - Dhulikhel - Bhaktapur

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